Yellow Roses

Mt. Adams

Mt. Adams from the Southwest.












Carbo-loading at the Cold Springs base camp.

High camp at Lunch Counter.













Climbers on the South face.

A beautiful day on the summit.

The 2,000' glissade down to Lunch Counter.

Dani glissading.

Wipeout!

Greetings from New York :: Thanks, Apple!

Yes, I'm still here. Or somewhere! I haven't been posting as much as I would like to – it's a lot harder than I thought it would be to find the time (or just take the time) to write while traveling.

I'm in New York, southeast of Snowville, after spending last night and this morning with Apple and her husband. We had a great visit - it was so nice to be able to meet her in person. And I certainly appreciated their warm hospitality. Thanks so much Apple, for putting me up for the night.


More later on the meandering route taken through Ohio on the way to New York... soon, I promise!

Sunset on the bay

Grand Portage Bay on Lake Superior - Grand Portage, MN. Here is a shot of the BEAUTIFUL sunset that we were fortunate to witness last night! Because of the cloud cover it seemed as though sunset wasn't going to be very good, but by the time the sun dipped below the horizon there was a small break in the clouds which allowed the sunlight to shine through and illuminate the underside of the clouds. SPECTACULAR!

Snow in Backyard

Leavenworth Givler's Dome ..

Adam and I discussed an outing, but I had to be back in town in time for my class. So cragging was an obvious choice. I wanted to do something that involved placing gear and not just clipping bolts, so I convinced Adam to head to Leavenworth. Being that it is November we didn't get an early start, as it is usually a little too cold in the mornings to make climbing not fun. When we arrived in the Icicle, the temp was around 36° and clouds/fog were keeping us from direct sunlight.

November morning in the Icicle

Our plan was to hike up to Givler's Dome to climb Givler's Crack. This extra 45 minutes of hiking would give us more time for the day to warm up. Within ten minutes or so we were above the fog and receiving the warmth of the sun. We got off route a few times on the way up and had to scramble a bit to get back on track, but eventually made it to the base.

Since Adam was not up to leading the route, I would lead both pitches. And for whatever reason, the first pitch scares me. Perhaps because I flailed on it the first time I climbed the route. I've climbed it twice since then with no problems though. I placed a nut high and started up. I found the hands difficult as I had placed the piece where it interfered where I wanted to put them. I down climbed to the ground and restarted. After a few moves, I placed a second piece which then interfered with further hands. But I was able to move past it and continue. I finished the pitch feeling like it was the worst I had ever climbed it.

I brought Adam up and he had to hang on the rope to remove my stuck #4 from down low. He then climbed the second half of the pitch not using much crack technique for his hands. He arrived at the belay stating the first section wasn't as hard as I made it look.

Adam on the first pitch

We exchanged gear, and I was off leading the next pitch. I don't recall how I previously climbed it, but this time I wanted to try and keep my feet in the crack as much as possible. This proved a bit uncomfortable, but I persevered. Instead of going all the way to the top, I set up an intermediate belay once the angle eased, so I could see Adam climb. Unfortunately, the best spot for a comfortable belay did not offer a good view of the pitch, and I only got pics of him on the last portion of the pitch.

Adam on the second pitch

When Adam arrived at the belay, he kept going to the top finishing with the easy section to the boulder. We quickly hiked down to our packs. We took a lunch break and basked in the sun before heading to another destination, Rare Earth.

Adam finishing the route

For the second time this year, the Rare Earth crag has eluded me. Adam and I hiked around trying to find it, but wasted all of our time. Even consulting the newer guide book was unhelpful as it shows the crag to be down and right of Mastodon Roof. Turns out it is really down and left of it. After almost two hours of scrambling, hiking and bushwhacking, we found it but not with enough time to complete it and get back to Seattle. So we made note of where it was at, and hiked out.

It was great to be out on such a beautiful November day. It was a bummer that we only climbed one route. And even though we pitched it out to three pitches, it really is only two. I think we'll have a better idea of how to find Rare Earth the next time as well. I think this trip satisfied my urge to get out and rock climb, and perhaps my next trip this year will be to climb snow or ice.

Coral Colored Thingys

Updated June 14th at 7:30 pm: My readers have informed me that these are Poppies! Thank you all.









Temple Square Gardens – Tuesday, June 7th

Washing Day.

No one likes smelly shoes at the crag, so the Caronas took a hit from the front load washing machine, along with some volleys. They look gorgeous again and ready for summer climbing.

Trumpets of Color

Trumpets of Color, originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.

The 'Grandpa Ott' morning glories are going through a second bloom period. There were over 50 flowers on the plants today!

The 'Heavenly Blue' vines are not blooming much yet, but there are a lot of flower buds...

My climbing pack?

I have gotten a number of emails asking me to be more specific on my own climbing pack design that Randy sews for me @ Cold Cold World.



These are the specs off the Spectra Ripstop version of the Ozone:





Pack weighs in at less than 1.5 #. Material is Spectra ripstop. Shoulder harness is off a full size CCW pack for the extra padding required on heavier loads. Some where above a 35L in my 21" back size.



Pack weight goes up as you add material weight. Same pack in the redballistics nylon shown in the pictures is 2.5#. Better weigh your own pack if the maker published the weight. I found one of the current manufactures a full 1/2# heavier than advertised on their"2 LB" 210d Dyneema Ripstop, 30L sack with a 17" back panel.I use a quality digital postal scale whichseems to help. My packs have a 21" back panel and the weights published above are thosepack's actual weightsin Spectra and Ballistics nylon. No gimics.



(details)

Custom sizing (which everyone should do if it is available to you)

custom pattern originally based on the Ozone size but with a bigger more oblong bottom

2liter+ water bottle size top pocket

2nd zippered pocket in bottom of the lid with key holder

Zippers reversed on the pockets for use on hanging belays

pull down shoulder straps instead of "pull up"

main bag has azippered "guide book" pocket...I use it for food and a head lamp generally

covered lid buckle which protects it while being hauled

removable foam pad

oversize shoulder straps for the extra weight when required

Perlon haul loop which is easier to clip on and off the anchor in difficult stances

dbl strap patches on lid (which I have yet to use but couldn't live with out)

dbl rope straps across the top of the pack, attaches ropes or tools just as easily

dbl bottom

10" extension with draw string

lid is extendable and or removable

bar tacked daisy chain on the bottom of the lid strap



There are no other attachment points on the pack...everything including, helmet, tools and crampons go inside the pack. You are forced to pack light.



I generally climb with the pack without the lid. If the lid is attached, it is likely stuck down inside the pack while climbing.



I've been using this "same" pack for years in many different and seemingly unlikely places. Randy's version is the best of those packs for my own use.



Sitting on a similar sized pack,during a quickascent of the West Buttress of Denali in the late 70's,usingthree pin skinny skis below 11K.









Bottom patternshape we ended up using for more comfort and volume is the larger orange pack. Shown with an earliersmaller CCW prototype.

Final pattern for the bottom panel of these packs.







Internal, 8" x9" pocket in the main sac. The higher, second zipper is the foam pad pocket.





Sewn on Ozone lid and an the extendable lid version I prefer with Velcro showing on the right.







Loaded and slightly extended, with tools strapped across the top under the lid. The toolsalso easily fit inside the pack as well...as hard as that may be to believe.





In all the pack is very simple. Butit is the detailing and attention to details when it is being sewn thatmakes the pack so awesome for my own use. The internal pocket for a bit of food or gel and a head lamp as an example, the extra thick, full size shoulder straps, the easily accessed and manipulated haul loop, the clean design when you need to haul, the easy extendable or removable lid, the small unpadded wings to give extra support on the hip belt when needed with heavier loads.



who, what and where:



Randy Rackliff @ Cold Cold World603 383 9021



http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com/

Engagement Day!

Above Image: "Where the Lake becomes the River" - Near the Gunflint Trail in northeast Minnesota, the Brule River resumes its journey toward Lake Superior after flowing through Northern Light Lake.









Last night, under the light of an incredibly surreal moonlit and lightning-filled sky over Lake Superior, I asked the woman I love to marry me. And she said YES! I feel like I'm floating on air today :-)









So, Jessica and I are now officially engaged :-) And what do we do to celebrate our engagement day? We spend it outside, of course! We went paddling on the Brule River and Northern Light Lake along the Gunflint Trail in Northeast Minnesota. It sure was a beautiful day!







Above: Jessica getting lost in the grass where the Brule River flows into Northern Light Lake







Above: The clouds and lily pads were awesome.







Above: It was loads of fun paddling through these reeds. Very interesting to watch them glide magically out of the way as the bow of the kayak nudged them to the side.







Above: Goofing off in the tall grass.

Glacier National Park :: A Visit With Jack Frost

Tuesday, September 20th - - We drove as far as we could from the east side on the Going to the Sun Highway – to Logan Pass. The highway had closed for the season at midnight on Sunday the 18th; not because of the weather but so that construction crews could work on the road.





On the way up to Logan Pass. Can you see several waterfalls toward the center of the picture? They can be seen if you double-click on the image for a larger version...





Clements Mountain and the beginning of the trail to Hidden Lake.

We walked a (very) short distance on the Hidden Lake Trail... The snow that I encountered in July of last year was no where to be seen, but I think there will be plenty of snow very soon!





In one section of trail, wildflowers blanketed the meadow.

We decided to walk a ways along the Highline Trail. Even though it was late in the morning there were traces of frost on the trails in the shaded areas, especially along the first portion of the Highline Trail. (As always, double-click on the image to see a larger version.)













Perhaps it was a good thing that the Going to the Sun Road was closed since the valley below was covered with fog.





You can see a little of the Going to the Sun Road on the right side of the above photo, just to the right and above the top of the fog.





Since the “season” was over, work crews had removed the chains along this section of the trail, parts of which are very narrow with a rather long fall if one should happen to slip! Crews were working on the trail around that far bend and we were reluctant to attempt to pass by them so we returned the way we came. After a short break for lunch, sitting in the glorious sunshine and taking in the awesome views, we went to the 'Many Glaciers' area further north in the park.