You can call me Crazy

I've been called that as well as many other things in the past! This time, it is well-deserved. And if you've been wondering why there haven't been any posts here on Kinexxions since the first of June, read on...



If you recall, back in December of last year, I began "cleaning up" my Legacy database. By the time I left on my travels at the end of January, some progress had been made but not much was done on it again until I returned to Indiana five weeks ago.



In the process of moving information from notes into events and sourcing it, I came to the disturbing realization that my sources were an absolute mess! There was no consistency in how the citations were entered and none are even close to "the standard" or any standard for that matter. I could come up with several excuses for this sad state of affairs, but what good would that do?



I have so many documents from my several visits in the last two years to Salt Lake City that need to be reviewed, analyzed and entered... but I made the difficult decision to not enter any new data until the "old" source citations were reviewed and standardized. All of them. So, yes, I must be crazy. Especially after I found out how many sources I have entered and how many individuals use those sources. Rather mind-boggling actually.



The other "big" decision made on the first of June was to begin using Legacy's SourceWriter. I understand there may be some issues with transferring sources via GedCom but using that feature would (hopefully) force me into a standardized format. That and I finally purchased the digital version of Evidence Explained. I figured it might help me to understand why a source had to be cited in a certain way ;-)



As might be expected, I had a few questions. I had recently joined the Legacy Virtual User's Group Community (LVUG) on Google+ (G+) so posted a question there. You can find it as well as the responses by clicking on the "Sources" link on the left hand side of the G+ LVUG Community landing page.



Some good ideas and information was offered by JL Beeken, Tessa Keogh, Monique Riley, Marla Larson, Richard Hallford, Melanie Armstrong, and Linda McCauley, all of whom I would like to thank for their ideas, suggestions, and input. It really helped me make a few decisions as to how I wanted to do the sources.



With over 7200 people and more than 700 sources in the database this is a monumental undertaking. But it really needs to be done. The number of individuals using a source varies considerably. Quite a few (probably more than half of the sources) are used by under 10 people while about 35 are used by more than 200. The source used by the most people is the Social Security Death Index with close to 1500 people - and each of those individuals has 2-3 citations for the SSDI (birth, death, and the event). Thank goodness for the source clipboard and Legacy's tagging feature! It would be an impossible task without those features.



On June 1st I started working with the source citations from Ancestry.com and FamilySearch databases and have gotten about 2/3 of the way through that list, eliminating about 15 duplicate sources. I've been working on the SSDI source citations for most of two days and am about half-way through with it.



I will be holding off on updating sources for census records until the Legacy team releases version 8 sometime later this year. It seems they may be implementing a feature for "shared" events such as census records that sounds rather intriguing. I sure am looking forward to the new version of Legacy!



Blog posts will be few and far between for the next month or two, as if they haven't been already this year! Most of my time for the next month will be devoted to this project. I will be attending G.R.I.P. the week of July 21st and (very optimistically) hope to have much of it completed by then. And, sometime the end of July or first part of August I'll be moving into my new apartment! And then there is the FGS Conference in August, which I am also looking forward to attending.



I hope that when this project is completed (or as complete as it can be) that I will still have a few faithful readers left. Thanks in advance for sticking around... and wish me luck!






At the end of the day, what's done is done.

Happy New Years Day ice climbing...

Happy New Year to all! Hope everyone survived the welcoming of . My New Years was much like the rest. Laura and I stayed home, didn't do much. We stuffed ourselves with some Kielbasa, Hot Dogs (veggie dogs), Sauerkraut, and some New Years Pretzel Bread that Laura baked up (see photo) which was bomb diggity! We rung in the New Year and made our way off to bed to rest up for my annual New Year's Revolution ice climbing! The temperatures weren't very favorable the previous days up to New Years Eve, but we still kept our spirits up as the weather forcast was for below freezing temps by morning with it going down as the day went on. Well it did just that. There was also a small amount of snow on the ground. A welcome sight from the dreary day before. We loaded up the gear and made our way to Secret Cliffs II. As we neared the cliffs, the snow deepened and winter seemed to be back in action. We hiked down to the climbs, only to find that the ice was still EXTREMELY wet and not very well bonded in most places. We seriously debated for a while whether or not Called on Account of Security would go. I'm sure it would've, but the delaminated ice at the top looked way too unsettled to rappel down from and we opted to let it go and continue to build for the upcoming cold week. After leaving Secret Cliffs we opted to continue our quest. We decided that to surely get in some climbing we should go to Lower Meadow Run to get on the mixed lines. We found that the ice there was in reasonable condition. I'd been itching to get back on Caveman and try to get the redpoint. I tooled my way up to the crux (3rd. bolt) and made it to the ice. I couldn't pull up around the corner and came off. The ice was poorly bonded and was washing out as I was climbing. I pulled back on and clipped the 4th bolt. The section above the fouth to the Rhody was very unstable as was the mucky topout. Given a little more attached ice and I think I would've got it. I can't wait to get back on it again. Laura gave it a quick go. Despite having a severe reach disadvantage she gave it her best. Captain Caveman proved to be more suited to those with long limbs. We roped up Anger Managment and took some turns on it. We did much more climbing than initially thought. It wasn't the best New Years Revolution conditions, but we climbed what we could and had a great time doing so! -As always climbing is a great way to bring in the New Year. Welcome !

Climbing Program Manager

I'm pleased to announce that Stefan Lofgren has officially been selected for the permanent position as Climbing Program Manager. Of course, he's been serving in this role in an acting capacity for over a year now, but his skills, drive, and vision for the program have proven him to be the best person to further the professionalization of the Mount Rainier Climbing program. Stefan has worked for over 20 years in the parks in the Pacific Northwest-most have been here at Mount Rainier, but he has also worked at Olympic. He knows the mountain, the weather, the people, and the environment. While serving in the acting Program Mgr. role, Stefan has guided a major transformation toward professionalizing the overall operation, establishing increased permanent supervisory oversight for staff, provided his staff with increased training opportunities and additional time to prepare for the season, created clear guidelines and SOPs which have helped reduce risk for his employees, spearheaded the first major climbing permit fee increase in over 10 years, and has set a vision for the program which will provide for an even more effective operation that works safely and efficiently doing the amazing things that the climbing rangers do. In addition, he worked with park staff to envision and implement a webcam for Camp Muir and established network connectivity for the Camp. These items will increase the safety for visitors going up to Camp Muir, and enables supervisory staff to spend more time on the mountain than at their computers in Longmire. Congratulations, Stefan! - Chuck Young, Chief Ranger, Mount Rainier National Park

Summer life in SWPA

Hello to all my climbing buddies out there. As most of you know I usually only post about thewinter climbing here in SWPA. Well I've decided to mix it up a bit (different meaning to my winter climbing buddies) and write a bit about this years summer climbing life. Don't get me wrong. I love the winter season... Its my favorite time of year for climbing. Give me waterfall ice, frozen turf or some slightly frozen rock any day. I'm in heaven. I haven't posted any summer climbing activity because summer climbing hasn't really existed for me the over the last few years. Why? Its been a voluntary choice. I've been taking the summers off to recover and train specifically for the upcoming winter season. During the summer I spend the majority of my time running countless miles though the woods and ridges of Pennsylvania's forests. I really enjoy trail running and have learned that long distance running is a great way to stay in top cardio shape for climbing regardless of season. I used to run races and did fairly well. This year I gave up racing, I just ran to run. I even held off from doing my favorite "good cause" 5k runs like The Mountain Laurel 5K at Laurel Hill State Park. Instead I just ran for fun. I even stopped more than usual along the way to check things out. I always enjoy the early morning birds and scenery. Don't get me wrong, I put in a lot of elevation and speed work. I've run a gazillion 800's at the track, etc... but the most enjoyable running I've done has been in the woods. Mostly on the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail. I enjoy covering anywhere from 10 to 50 miles a day depending on mood and current physical condition. Some days I push, others not so much. All in all running has become a serious passion of mine and a great training tool for climbers. It also teaches you about the importance of nutrition and hydration while expending mass amounts of energy. Another great tool for striving climbers. So if you're a climber and you want to get better and stay lean and in shape, start running... The further and longer the better. Climbing lighter is climbing smarter!Since last ice season was a bust and we did very minimal climbing. I decided enough was enough and dusted off my rock shoes and started summer climbing to make sure I remembered how (in case we never get another winter). I started back slow and spent some time bumbling at the familiar, local spots. Having a great deal of fun each time I went out. Our days have been spent cragging and working at crags to clear and improve areas so that people can visit/revist and enjoy our local spots.

Doing work at Breakneck

BREAKNECK PROJECT

In August I spent a couple weeks rebolting Breakneck Crag just outside of Connellsville. The bolts were getting old and a bunch of generous climbers raised enough money to purchase new hardware. I pulled the old rusted 3/8" bolts and replacing them with new, BEEFY 1/2" stainless steel ones. All the climbs now have ring shuts to lower from (even the lower slab).




LOST CRAG EFFORTS

Laura and I spent a great deal of time doing work at the Lost Crag in Dunbar. We cleared and remarked the entire "Upper Easy" approach trail. Much effort was spent at the crag itself improving the area and opening up some choked in areas around the rocks. Along with working there, we also climbed a few days with my son Skyler and good friend Cal Swogar. Neither one were ever there and really enjoyed the climbs. On different days we climbed Drill Queen 5.4, Preacher Norm 5.10, Evil Edge 5.7, Psycho Driller 5.6, Lichenville 5.7, Lame Duck 5.11, Chimney Sweep 5.4 and others I'm sure. Some routes were a little dirty other required a little scrubbing to make them a little "friendlier". We installed a new rap anchor on top of the Short stack to make getting down a little easier. If someone has stolen said anchor, feel confident that we also cleared the shelf that makes getting onto rappel at the shuts of Reunion safer and easier. If you've never been there, get directions from mountainproject.com or rockclimbing.com or email me and I can hook you up with some proper ones. Its a fun place to visit and deserves to see more activity than it does. The routes tend to be shorter, but there are plenty of them. They range in difficulty from 5.4 to 5.12+ most folks seem to say they're a little stiff for the grade. Go enjoy!

Cal Swogar on Preacher Norm 5.10

Cal Swogar on Preacher Norm 5.10

Skyler Anderson on Evil Arete 5.7

Laura taking a break below Brutal Orangutan

Slopers in the rain face

River's End Crag, Ohiopyle State Park

River's End is one of the downstream crags at Ohiopyle State Park. It's located (although not labeled) on the Ohiopyle State Park Map. available at the old train station or the park office. Climbing areas are indicated by the climber symbol on the map. I've been asked by several folks the order of the crags going down the bike trail here they are for clarification: The first area listed on the Ohiopyle map is located 1 mile downstream on the bike trail (just after white mile post 73). Unnamed to my knowledge, its primarily used by the local rafting companies to take very new climbers, boy/girl scouts, etc. for a day of top roping. Its short and closest to town. Perfect crag for beginners. The second crag on the map is River's End Crag. It is located about 3.75 miles downstream from the train station it is locatable by finding the DH marked brown and yellow marker on the river side of the bike trail. This DH stands for Double Hydraulics which is the name of the corresponding rapid on the river. River's End Crag is located between the DH (Double Hydraulics) rapid marker and the RE (River's End) rapid marker. The crag is on the left between these two markers. It is very visible from the trail. The Third crag downstream on the map is Schoolhouse Crag. It is located 4.25 miles from the train station, just before the SH (school House) rapid marker or the 76 mile marker. The fourth crag downstream on the map is Maple Wall. It is slightly less than 1/2 mile past School house. It is easily located at the end of the long straight away on the bike path right after passing School House. There is a pull off and a bench directly across from the access trail up to the crag. The fifth crag downstream on the map is Bruner Run. It is easily located. As you head further downstream past Maple Wall you will come to a hardtop road crossing. As you cross the road the light blue blaze for the access trail to the crag is visible on your left. Follow the access trail up to the crag, which is about a 10min. hike up from the bike trail and Bruner Run Rd. access point. If in doubt walk up the road about 200 yards the crag is visible on your right. Currently those are all the downstream crags offered at Ohiopyle. There is plenty of serious bouldering to be found along the river and bike trail. Some really nice stuff is at mile post 1 on the Laurel Highlands Hiking trail heading out of town near Falls Pub for those interested in seeking it out. Here's a photo of one of my favorites not far from Bruner Run.

This is what you see from the trail

a little closer, pretty cool

The really sweet uphill side!

River's End Crag... Laura and I have been cycling in regularly and improving things there. We've created a bike parking area on the river side of the bike trail to keep climbers bikes from crowding the trail. We worked on improving the access trail up to the left side, (still needs a little work). Old routes have been cleaned and new routes have been equipped and should prove to be great additions to the climbing in Ohiopyle. Here's a few photos of the crag and climbs waiting for your ascent.

Me standing below the left side of Rivers End Crag

One of our new lines Snail Trail 5.6 trad, left side

The left side of Rivers End Crag.

The petrified log on the new line Petrified 5.11- Sport, left side

On the first ascent of Petrified 5.11- sport, 5 bolts, left side

Me tying in for the new climb

Carl's Bunnies 5.9 sport, 3 bolts, left side

An amazingly fun new line (Laura's favorite)

The Bee's Knees 5.10+ sport, 4 bolts, right side.

Follow up slightly overhanging flakes to the shuts.

My super partner after a hot and humid day!

Here's a couple of shots from a few years back highlighting the route B.O.P. 5.10c R at River's End Crag, Right side.

Carl Samples climbs B.O.P (Birds of Prey) 5.10+ sport

at River's End Crag in . The route Carl's Bunnies

on the left wall is a reference to him

Carl Samples at the shuts on B.O.P at River's End Crag

in .

The Knobs a.ka. Rob's Knob, Dunbar, PA
We've been up here a few times this season. We cleared the trail and restacked the carins on the way up the hill. Most of the climbs are in good shape as far as needing cleaned. We did quite a few of the 63 or so routes that exist here. So many have been recently brushed and are ready to go. Most of the bolts were replaced just a few years back, so everything is solid. This place deserves to see more traffic. I'm sure only a handful of people actually climb here each season. What a great crag to visit if you are comfortable placing a little trad gear. Some fully bolted climbs exits, but you'd be missing some of the best lines if you don't bring some trad gear for the mixed and pure gear lines. If you've never been there, this crag should be on your list to visit soon. We added a rap station on the Can I touch it block at the top of I think I soloed that 5.6 to help in getting down off of this block. Another rap station was added on top of Oriental Lickmaster block. It is between the corner climb Way Up 5.8, trad. and Gagging on the Shag 5.11c/d trad. since the tree normally used for rappel is now mostly rotten. Some pics of The Knobs or a.k.a. Rob's Knob.

Climbing Way Up 5.8 trad

Christian Mason on Take a Stab 5.8 trad

Gagging on the Shag 5.11c/d trad

Mungo Jelly 5.10c, mixed, 1 bolt

Laura belaying me on Can I touch it 5.11c sport 2 bolts

Laura and I relaxing at The Knobs photo Ray Burnsworth

Terror of Tiny Tim

Happy Holidays from Shore Acres!

Today I had planned on being in California, but last night I had heard about this incredible Christmas light display at Shore Acres State Park. I wanted to visit Shore Acres anyway, since I knew that it could be an incredible place for viewing waves breaking against the cliffs. But that alone wasn't enough to make me want to put off going to California for one more day. However, once I heard about the Christmas light display, I knew I had to check it out.



I arrived at the park in the early afternoon so I could watch the waves for a while. I've heard stories of days where you get drenched from the spray coming off the waves, and while there were some pretty impressive waves, they weren't big enough to send spray over the top of the cliff where the viewing area was located. Nonetheless, it was awesome to witness the power of the ocean in such a beautiful place.



After the sun went down, people started showing up for the light display. According to the "Friends of Shore Acres" website, the light display is made possible by support from local businesses and the hard work of more than 1,500 volunteers. The holiday display uses "about" 275,000 lights, the majority of which are L.E.D. lights. The display draws around 40,000 to 50,000 visitors each year.



I shot a few video clips of the light displays, too. If you'd like to view them, click on this link which will bring you to the video gallery on my main photography website:

http://www.travisnovitsky.com/Video-Clips/Misc-Videos/4207197_KrddQ

Mountain Snowpack Begins to Build Again

The recent storms have brought almost 40" of fresh snow to the mountain and more is expected in the near future. While this bodes well for the upcoming climbing season, the inclement weather does nothing to help with the road reconstruction effort underway. Still, the forecasted reopen dates remain in effect: April 1st for the opening to Longmire and May 1st for the opening of the road to Paradise. Unfortunately, with road reconstruction in full swing, there really isn't public access to Paradise... Even if you have the energy and determination to ski or hike the road. More on Access

Over the weekend rangers climbed to Camp Muir to inspect conditions and dig out facilities. I've included several photos here from this trip to whet your appetite.
While things are quiet here at the Park, this might be a good time to get a jump on things and purchase your 2007 climbing pass and cut down on the time you will spend during registration. Complete the Climbing Pass Purchase Form and fax it to 360.569.3131.

Perfect Weather for climbing and skiing

Breaking with tradition, as oddly happened also in 2005, there was reasonable weather on the upper mountain over Memorial Day weekend. The normal Pacific NW tradition calls for drippy rain and snowfall. So with the good weather came a whole bunch of skiers and climbers.

At Camp Schurman, the skiers took over. After all was said and done, there were more successful skiers than climbers! Here is an all women's team that ripped down from the summit on Monday afternoon. They reported excellent climbing conditions, and relatively icy ski conditions... But that wasn't a problem for them. On the other hand, I witnessed another skier tumble and fall roughly 200-300 vertical feet near 12,600 feet. It took his teammates a few hours to collect his equipment and get him back to Camp Schurman. He wasn't hurt too badly, but it was awful to watch it play out through the telescope. YIKES!

On an important administrative note, here is a heads up to those who don't think they need to register. There are intensity patrols happening in the backcountry and they are checking to make sure that all teams have permits. This weekend, a few parties were turned around and some were cited for failure to register for a climb. Make sure you get your permit and climbing pass before taking off. If you need help, give us a call 360-569-2211 ext 6009.

Cat in a Box

It's My Box!! You can't have it.

60th Wedding Anniversary of Henry & Susie Yarian Phend

Columbia City Post, Whitley County, Indiana
Tuesday ~ September 2, 1952

Thursday, September 4, will be the 60th wedding anniversary of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Phend of this city. The event was observed Sunday while the daughter, Mrs. Bernice Holderman of San Gabriel, Calif., could be home to have a part in the family observance. The eight children of Mr. and Mrs. Phend were all present for the event.

On Thursday evening the Evangelical United Brethren church will give a dinner at 6:30 o'clock in honor of Mr. and Mrs. Phend and members of their family. Mr. and Mrs. Phend have long been closely associated with the local church and Mr. Phend has long served as a member of the Board of Trustees.

Seventy-five people attended the dinner at noon which was served on the lawn. In the afternoon 150 guests called between 2 and 5 o'clock. The large anniversary cake, in white and decorated in gold and pink, formed the decorative note of the serving table.

Mrs. Phend, bride of 60 years ago, was attired in a white print marked with a purple design and on her left shoulder was pinned an orchid with a purple throat.

A Packard electric organ provided music and vocal music was furnished by Mr. and Mrs. LaMar Phend of Osceola, who have their own program on the radio entitled "Strolling Down Memory Lane." The couple were heard at the Republican Convention in Chicago.

Four generations were in attendance at the Platinum anniversary of Mr. and Mrs. Phend, who were showered with gifts of every description. A wrist watch, something Mrs. Phend has always wanted, was a gift from one of her children. Other gifts from the children included a pop-up toaster, an electric blanket and there were gifts of money. The Phend home was aglow with flowers that had been brought in by friends.

According to Mr. and Mrs. Phend it was raining on their wedding day. The couple was united in marriage, at the hotel in Nappanee owned by Mrs. Phend's aunt, by the Rev. O. L. Richart, a minister of the Evangelical United Brethren church. Two of the guests at their wedding 60 years ago were present at the anniversary observance Sunday. They were Ed Phend and Mrs. Clara Phend, cousins of Mr. Phend, both of Nappanee. Movies were taken during the day.

Since 1898 Mr. and Mrs. Phend have resided in Columbia City where Mr. Phend has long been known as a building contractor and where this summer he has served as an inspector on the Mary Raber School where classes were organized today for the first time.

All of the Phend children were in attendance at the wedding anniversary observance of their parents, also some of the grandchildren and great-grandchildren.Guests attended the event from Nappanee, Elkhart, South Bend, Fort Wayne, Goshen, Monticello, Larwill and Pierceton. The daughter, Bernice Phend Holderman of San Gabriel, Calif., left today for her home on the Golden State Limited out of Chicago, after a month's visit here.

Henry and Susie with their children: Rolland Victor "Vic" (my grandfather), Cecil, Russell, Paul, Bernice, Virgil, Gerald, and Don Phend. September 2, 1952.

Henry and Susie Phend with their great grandchildren, September 2, 1952. That's me on the left side, sitting on the ground. My brothers, Doug and Jack, are between me and Susie. Doug was 5, I was 4, and Jack was 3 years old. I wish I could say that I remember Henry and Susie, but I don't. I would have been 8 years old when Susie died and 10 when Henry died. Two years after this picture was taken Susie went into a Nursing Home after suffering a stroke and remained there until her death on April 29, 1956. In January 1956, Henry fell and broke his hip. He too was put into a Nursing Home where he resided until his death on July 10, 1958.