A Quick and Healthy Diet

I don't usually pay attention to my weight unless I start to feel uncomfortable. Well, a week ago that day came. I've been super busy and not riding as much as I'd like over the past month, without changing my eating habits to accommodate. It was fine for a while, until one day I got on the bike and... well, let's just say I felt my tummy jiggle and fold in on itself as I pedaled. It was disconcerting. So I decided to go on a diet and get myself to a state of feeling comfortable again. The healthiest version of a crash diet I know is a low-carb, high fiber, high nutrition diet. It works extremely well, because in addition to making you eat healthier it also acts as an appetite suppressor. Here are the rules for anyone interested:



Things to cut out completely:

alcohol, sweets, junk food, bread, pasta, potatoes, rice, soda, most juices



Things to eat:

vegetables, lentils, nuts, eggs, milk, fish and meat (or tofu and quorn),high-fiber oatmeal, apples, berries, cheese, butter, unsweetened carrot and cranberry juice



How much to eat:

For a woman my size not engaged in strenuous exercise, around 1,200 calories a day will work. But this is ballpark; adjust for size/gender/exercise level. Go heavy on the vegetables, light on the fatty stuff, and medium on the protein.



How long will it take?

I see results in 1-2 weeks when I follow this strictly.



Sample Day's Menu:

breakfast:

oatmeal with butter and blueberries

lunch:

steamed spinach with sesame seeds and sliced almonds

dinner:

grilled salmon and asparagus, lentil soup

snacks:

apple, nuts, broccoli florets, baby carrots, coffee and tea with milk



So... I have been doing this for 5 days now. It was difficult on the first two days, then it got much easier. The fiber, the reduced carbohydrates, and the elimination of alcohol are the key here. I already feel a difference and in another week my body should be back to normal. Then I will have a good look at my schedule and try to get more riding in, so that I can eat whatever I want again (kidding, I will try to generally eat healthy from now on is what I meant to say)...

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

Thursday, September 1st - - With the campsite in shade and temperatures in the low 30s this morning I went and found a nice sunny spot in which to eat breakfast. Then it was off to see the sights!





Sometimes, I guess, Buffalo prefer an easy route to wherever they are going! They were frequently seen alongside and on the road, usually only one or two bison at a time.



My primary destination this morning was the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone with its beautiful Lower Falls and Upper Falls. Located at the northeastern corner of the southern highway loop, the 40 mile drive from the campground took about two hours, with stops along the way at the Mud Volcano Area and Sulphur Caldron.





My first stop in the “Grand Canyon” area was Artist Point on the South Rim.



Artist Point provides stunning views of the 308-foot Lower Falls. It is, quite simply, breathtaking! The morning light along with a hazy sky enhanced the view allowing details in the sides of the canyon to show up, though the colors are somewhat muted.





A closer view of the Lower Falls.



And, even closer.



The colors of the canyon didn't show up clearly in the photos of the Lower Falls, but, oh my, how they “popped” when looking to the northeast! The fantastic colors of the north side of the canyon come from rhyolite and sediments that have been altered by hydrothermal action (i.e. hot water from springs that were active in years past).





The Upper Falls is not quite as impressive (only 109 feet) or photogenic as the Lower Falls but it was still worth the walk down a short trail to see it.





It was also easier to access the Brink of the Upper Falls from another short trail. The Brink of the Lower Falls was a strenuous trail that dropped 600 feet in a very short distance. I passed on that one but did go to the Brink of the Upper Falls, shown above.





The view from Inspiration Point, on the North Rim, looking to the northeast.





As I drove up to the northwest side of the park to the Mammoth Hot Spring Terraces, the clouds moved in.





I walked along most of the boardwalk trails in the lower terraces but my legs were getting a little wobbly by the time I made it to the upper terrace area. Whether it was from the lighting conditions or the fact that many of the springs in that area have gone dormant, I was disappointed with my visit there. The photos I took were rather blah.





The view from the front of the upper terraces was rather impressive though. On the drive back to the campground, I took the “shorter” route along the west side of the northern loop then cutting across to Canyon Village and the eastern side of the southern loop. It was still about a 75 mile drive back to the campground.

Antoine !

He's funny. I think. I'm nevercompletely sure.

He carries monumental loads of gear up to the crag, a huge BD pig full of bolting gear, music, stove, hammock, ropes and croissants.

He elegant, he's strong, he's ever so stylish.Don't hate him cause he's beautiful.







Antoine clips the first of a dense cluster of quickdraws.









That is a whole lotta muscle coming up that cliff underneath me. Twin chalk bags, big guns, odd shoes.

















We talk and talk, then Antoine will say "enough philosophy, let's climb"









Belayers beware. The Big Frenchman likes skinny ropes and roller biners. When he comes off it's like a bison comingatcha.













What are the odds hey.jjobrienclimbing had the lens open at the exact moment Antoine released his energy burst.Lucky I was at a safe distance.









Antoine wears: soft shell by Mountain HardwearAgriculturalists cap by John Deer

The annual Coolum "Sendfest" is the biggest event on The Cave calender and isthe brainchild of Antoine Moussette. Antoine keeps the score.

Points are assigned to the each climber on the basis of.... or maybe get added to the crag score or....... or something about acumulative something...



I really don't get it, but jeez it's fun. We climb, and Antoine and I drink a lot of chai and coffee.





He claims to be from Quebec. But he sounds French to me.

I'm Nice! Miriam says so!

I've been honored by receiving the Nice Matters Blog Award from Miriam Midkiff. This award was created earlier this month by Genevieve Olsen at Bella Enchanted to "be awarded to those that are just nice people, good blog friends and those that inspire good feelings and inspiration! Those that care about others that are there to lend support or those that are just a positive influence in our blogging world!" Two versions of the award are available, one for the ladies and another, less feminine, for the gentlemen.

Actually, I think that most all genea-bloggers could receive this award. They are investing a lot of time in blogging because they want to share their family stories and research and many of them have certainly inspired me. So, if you haven't already done so, click on some of those blogs in my blogroll and check them out! Anyway, I've selected the following five genea-bloggers (in no significant order) to receive the Nice Matters Award. . .

• Denise Olson at Family Matters for sharing her passion for research by providing detailed tips on new technology and resources that we can use in our own research. On her personal blog, Moultrie Creek, Denise shares stories and memorabilia of her family.
• Janice Brown at Cow Hampshire for her unique perspective on genealogy and for her wry sense of humor - and her interest in outhouses (and their contents) . . .
• Chris Dunham of The Genealogue fame for brightening my day with his humorous and touching stories and for creating the "Genealogy Blog Finder" and I'm really enjoying his "Genealogy Challenge" series.
• Tim Agazio at Genealogy Reviews Online for the unusual and interesting stories and websites that he finds and shares with us.
• Stephen Danko researcher extraordinaire at Steve's Genealogy Blog who sets a high standard for documentation with his translations of Polish documents. It only follows that if I'm a nice person, then someone who shares the same personality type as I do must also be a nice person!

Custer State Park :: Nature's Bounty

Friday, August 26th - - I took my time driving through the park as I was leaving, making a big loop north and another one toward the south.





The Cathedral Spires are in the northwest side of the park, along Needles Highway, and were magnificent in the early morning light.





The Iron Mountain Road takes you along the north east side of the park and was considered an engineering marvel when it was first built. It is still rather impressive with the sharp curves, hairpin turns, wooden bridges, and tunnels that were bored through the granite rock – the three tunnels on this route perfectly frame the Presidents on Mount Rushmore that are seen in the distance. I took no pictures on that route – there was too much traffic and the parking areas near the tunnels were filled to capacity when I passed by that way yesterday.





I only drove a short portion of the Wildlife Loop Road as I was leaving the park - it went back north and I was headed south. Buffalo were grazing in the meadow when I turned onto the road.





A hungry calf.



Upon exiting the road on my return, the Bison were taking a break in the meadow. The park maintains a herd of about 1,300 bison, of which these were but a small part.





These antelope were seen a little ways south of Custer State Park but before getting to Wind Cave National Park. I stopped at Wind Cave visitor center but did not take a tour into the cave – too many steps down and I've toured several other large caves.

Sadness

On an incredibly somber note, the Seattle climbing community and Mount Rainier climbing program were rocked this week with the loss of a very close friend. While warming up for larger climbs in the Alaska Range, our friend fell to her death descending Mount Wake. At this time, we're withholding many of details until her husband can be notified. The press has picked up on the accident, as have many of the chat rooms (ST, CC); all are honoring the request for privacy until proper notification can be made. I'll post more information about the incident and this incredible person when the time is right. Here is picture of Mt. Wake provided by Mark Westman.

Scarpa Phantom Alpine Boots

Check out the complete reviews of both the Phantom Guide and Phantom 6000 posted on the blog in April '10 (Guide) August '10 (6000).

April update.....late this month before we'll see the Phantom Guide...late August before we'll see the 6000.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//04/scarpa-phantom-guide-vs-la-sportiva.html

Last issue of R&I has a good write up by DR on the new Scarpa single boot, Phantom Guide. They look and feel even better in person. The newest Phantom 6000 dbl isn't on the web page last I checked. So thought some might want to see it as well.

The two boots in the new Phantom series so far are REALLY low profile and lwt boots. Hopefully I'll be using a pair of the dbls shortly and can give more feedback and a detailed review and comparison to my Sportiva Baruntse (incredible boot btw) and the Spantik.

My take from playing with them @ the OR show is they will be as big a jump in mtn boots technology as the Sportiva Batura and Spantik were a couple of years ago. Crampon fit might be a bit of an issue though with the extremely low profile toe and soles. But the same will make them climb really well I suspect. We'll have to wait and see. The boots should be out to retailers in a month or so. Check Amazon and Backcountry on delivery dates if you are interested. Plenty of time I am hoping for the spring Alaska season. Amazing just how good the gear is getting!

The last generation Scarpa Phantom Lt had already won the enviable reputation of being a more durable boot than the Batura on the long Chamonix mixed routes. I am hoping they continue to live up to their reputation with the newest boots.

Feb 5 update:

Going to be March before we see any of the new boots in the US. In a size 42 the Guide weights 1# 15oz, the 6000 is 2# 3oz. Sizing is better in these boots compared to the older model Scarpas. Instead of a full size smaller they are running a Euro 1/2 smaller than American sizing.

The Guide will be imported in a full 1/2 size run. SADLY.....Scarpa USA has again decided to bring the Phantom 6000 in only in full sizes. Bummer that one as I really need a 45.5 to get the best advantage from the boot. Better I guess than Sportiva who only makes full size shells on their dbl boots. At least I could buy a true 45.5 if I am in Europe or possibly Canada.


Phantom Guide, single boot with attached super gaiter.










New Phantom 6000, looks to be one of the lowest profile and lowest volume dbl boots on the market. I suspect it will be a big hit for some of us.. For my own use I have thought what was really needed was a bit less volume than the newest huge dbls and all the current technology to come up with a boot that was warm enough for most winter stuff and would still climb very well.

I suspect the 6000 has answered some of that request.


The new Scarpa 6000 dbl boot

Laura's last free days

Well I'm sad to report that my faithful climbing partner has decided to become a full time student starting next week. This leaves me well... needing partners. This was her last free week to get out and climb as much as possible, not an easy task given the current weather trends. Today we made the best of things (again) and since she's never been to Rattlesnake Rocks, we decided to hike there and make a day of it. We had fun climbing the short, but challenging routes. Here's a few highlights of Laura involved in some "mixed" action today. (If you look closely there is a wee bit of ice located in some of the cracks) This may be the closest thing Laura gets to winter climbing before school starts. Best of Luck in school Laura, you'll be greatly missed as my daily partner.

Laura making some moves

Lovely Lilies - Another Joy of Summer

The skies brightened for a little while this morning after the rain. Long enough to grab a few shots of the lilies starting to bloom in my little garden just outside the front door. I've never seen so many blooms on these plants before. As always, click on the image to see a larger version.

Crampons...Mono points/ Dual points

Two 2 winter's ago, I was scratching my way up a couple of pitches of moderate mixed at the end of a long walk.

I kept thinking at the time just how really hard the same two pitches would have been in my "other" gear.

The "other" gear would have been dual horizontal front points, much more supportive boots and a set of ice tools that would likely be much more appropriate for the majority of the climb.




Climbing on the last two pitches wasn't very hard, but consistent, and maxed at M 4 or 5. Way more rock climbing than ice. As there just wasn't much ice to be had beyond some nice scabs plastered here and there. So the tools were hooked on rock and the mono points set in a combination of rock or ice. Vertical granite cracks and blocks were abundant so it was easy to slot the single front point. The ice placements I did get for my feet typically sheared out with only the one set of points for support and I ended up on rock anyway.

When it came to climbing the last 30m of the open book it was all rock. Even with the best gear for that particular job it was difficult enough for me. With my "other" gear it may well have been more than I bargained for.

Daniel Harro photo



My point? In this instance a set of Nomics and Darts matched to the easy ankle flex in the older La Sportiva "Ice" made a lot of sense. No question the combo of the three made the climbing much easier. Funny how it turned out as I wasn't worried about the climbing just wanted easy boots to make the 15 mile hike in and didn't want to carry much weight. Turns out all three were a good choice on a iced up rock climb.

I used a similar thought process on another climb last winter were I took a set of Dartwins. 2000' of ice this time, most of it moderate WI4 or less. Two things I noticed besides having a lwt weight set of foot wear. ('pons and Trango Extreme Boots)

The first was the vertical front points of the Dartwins sheared through a lot on the warmer ice.

By mid day it was becoming irritating how careful I had to climb because of it. I would have much preferred a set of BD Sabertooth crampons at that point. And stripped they would have been even lighter than the Dartwins. (which come stripped)



Darts alone on this particular climb, that day, would have REALLY sucked in comparison to either the Dartwin or Sabertooth. I would have been forced to do a lot of French technique on the mono point Dart that is already notorious for having loss a set of down points. More akin to roller skates at that point than a set of Sabertooths.

In the world of ever more specialised equipment it pays to really look at what you are using, when, why and where.

I saw a comment earlier today where a very good climber was forced while following to aid and French free 30 meters of difficult rock, the same 30m that the leader had freed with mono point 'pons. The reason it wasn't freed was climbing on dual front points. The dual point 'pons simply couldn't be slotted into the finger crack.

For the remaining 500m of easy alpine ice that they simu climbed above the finger crack the Darts would have been fine and no real disadvantage over the dual points.

Another point recently made to me. If you weigh 150# in full winter kit it is a lot less likely you'll be shearing vertical front points than if you weigh in at a full 200# plus kit. I'm no fly weight. Never have been and realise I putt more stress on my gear because of it so I tend to notice the small things a little sooner where others might not.

I am comfortable with both styles of 'pons in my quiver but I also look at where I want to use them and why. If I had to chose I would ditch the monos.